ONE of the curiosities of Scotland's fascinatingly eclectic wine scene is the dearth of vintners in Glasgow. Whereas Edinburgh is bursting at the seams with lively, interesting, cosy little wine shops, Glasgow is a vinous desert. Of course, the famil
iar high-street names such as Majestic, Oddbins, Haddows and Victoria Wine are well represented and, one suspects, all do a roaring trade. But apart from a handful of independent off-licences and the exceptional Peckham & Rye delicatessen chain, the coast is pretty much clear.
Which is strange given the quality of Glasgow's restaurant and bar scene. For a city that boasts the likes of Rogano and The Ubiquitous Chip, why not a five-star wine merchant? It is a question Hamish Martin has attempted to answer. To the relief of many west-coast wine lovers, Martin, a self-styled 100% Glaswegian, has done what many in the Scottish wine trade have been talking about for years and opened a rather fine bespoke wine merchant on Bath Street.
Some of you may have come across Martin, who has been selling wine in Scotland since 1991 and now counts the likes of Gleneagles, Skibo Castle and the Scottish Parliament among his clients. The closest thing the Scottish wine trade gets to Hugh Grant, Martin started Inverarity Vaults after being discharged from Sandhurst with torn ligaments. With a military and rugby career brought to an abrupt end, he turned to his third passion, wine.
Like a lot of good wine merchants, he started selling out of the back of a van. In his case, 600 bottles of rosé – then deeply unfashionable – from a battered old Land Rover. His big break came when he persuaded two large French producers, Jaboulet and Hugel, to let him represent their wines in Scotland.
Given their size, it was a leap of faith, but it allowed Martin to target the top end of Scotland's hotel and restaurant trade, building up a portfolio of independent wine producers. From its base in Biggar, the firm has built an enviable reputation. But supplying hotels and restaurants is one thing; having a stab at the retail market is quite another.
"There was no five-year marketing plan," says Martin. "It was more intuitive. There is nobody else doing it in Glasgow, to be honest, and I really enjoy the city. It just seemed right for me. I saw the space in Bath Street and instinctively thought it would make a great wine shop. It has grown from that."
The shop, Inverarity One to One Fine Wines, opened its doors in December. With its whitewashed walls, antique table for a till and leather-bound visitors' book, it has the look and feel of an old-fashioned wine merchant. "The whole thing about One to One is that it is a one-to-one service," says Martin. "Whether you buy a bottle for £4.99 or £499, you will still be treated the same. It's the philosophy behind the shop – we want to give our time and energy to every customer who comes in."
The list, comprising more than 600 wines, is strong on Europe, particularly France, along with some interesting New Word producers. I hope it succeeds. Glasgow has been crying out for a good wine merchant for decades. Perhaps it's finally got one.
2006 Soave Classico, Inama, Verona, Italy, 12.5%, £9.99An attractive, heady wine that almost immediately lifts the spirits. The nose has an intoxicating chamomile and sweet-almond character with a touch of wild meadow, while the body is pure and powerful. A heavenly summer wine.
2005 Domaine Bernard Baudry, Chinon, Loire Valley, France, 13%, £9.99This expression of the cabernet franc varietal packs quite a punch. It sits in the glass, a brooding, dark plum colour. The nose has slight notes of pencil shavings and tobacco while the body, although firm, has a supple, velvety attractiveness.
2000 Domaine de Lauroux, Cuvée Confiance, Côtes de Gascogne, France, 12.5%, £7.49Anyone looking for a decent house claret but put off by Bordeaux's prices should pick up a case of this. A Bordeaux-style blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, it is extremely drinkable, with a soft, supple, almost velvety character, while retaining that unmistakable cedar-led blackcurrant nose.
Stockist: Inverarity One to One Fine Wines, 185a Bath Street, Glasgow, (0141 221 5121,
www.inverarity121.com)
The full article contains 758 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
