IN MANY ways, 2008 could yet prove to be one of the wine industry's most important years. Quality-wise, it is still too early to tell whether the '08s will go down as a great, classic, mediocre or even poor vintage, but in terms of economic and consu
mer trends things are looking very interesting indeed.
Firstly, thanks to our politicians' apparent zeal to eradicate any form of pleasure derived from alcohol, we are seeing the gradual disappearance of the £3.99 bottle of plonk. As well as tax rises, retailers are having to deal with increased transport and production costs as well as a rise in the price of glass. After years of holding back, wine merchants are being forced to pass these extra costs on to the consumer. I have already noted a gradual rise in prices across many wine lists. Expect this to continue.
Secondly, after many false starts, this may be the year the British finally turn back to French wine. Not only is Australia facing one of the worst droughts in its history, which in turn has led to a grape shortage, there is also evidence that we are moving towards a drier, leaner style of wine. Certainly there is a widespread desire to lower alcohol percentages, something French wine producers are very good at.
Of course, France will not find it easy. The exchange rate will not help, nor will the fact that despite the success of Mouton Cadet and Piat d'Or it still doesn't have a mature, recognised brand leader in the form of, say, Jacob's Creek or Yellowtail. The complicated AOC appellation system doesn't help either, leaving many British consumers, brought up on the varietal system, confused. But, given all this, I suspect it has been decades since France's wine industry has felt so optimistic about the future.
Perverse as it may sound, for someone who has consistently used this column to decry the New World's ripe, bullish, pugnacious style of wines, I feel a tad sympathetic about their plight.
These big, bolshy, immediately gratifying wines have colonised our high streets for the best part of two decades and although I am not predicting their immediate demise, 2008 could be a pivotal year in terms of a shift in drinking habits.
Perhaps we have finally realised that the beauty of wine is that it throws up an array of styles suited to a variety of different moods. As much as I enjoy Bach, I make no apology for the fact that sometimes I turn to Gilbert & Sullivan or Pink Floyd or Miles Davis – an eclectic appreciation that would have been anathema to me as a 12-year-old when only Guns N' Roses would do.
In terms of wine consumed, as a nation the Brits have never drunk as much. Research from marketing analysts Datamonitor forecasts that wine sales in Britain are expected to reach £7 billion by 2010. More importantly, though, it predicts that the amount we spend on a bottle of wine will also increase. As a nation of wine drinkers, perhaps we are finally coming of age.
Three from the New World2006 Cabernet Carmenère, Yali Winemaker's Selection, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5%, £5.99 Carmenère is fast becoming the grape variety of choice for my Chilean red selections and this blend works really well. There is a lot of deep, memorable ripeness on the nose, balanced by a leathery hardness on the palate.
2006 Reserva Shiraz, Finca Flichman, Mendoza, Argentina, 13%, £5.99With barbecue season just around the corner, this is worth stocking up on. Perhaps a little more refined than the pugnacious, fruit-driven shirazes I have tried from this part of the world, it has a warming, rich, forest-feel character with an attractive spicy finish.
2005 Shiraz, Eventide Cellar, Wellington, South Africa, 14%, £8.99An enormous wine. Big, round and attractive in every sense. Packed full of dense, ripe plum and cherry notes, this is monstrously supple.
Stockists: Majestic; Waitrose; Great Grog, Edinburgh (0131 555 0222)
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