IF there is one question that can silence a room of wine enthusiasts, it is the perennial enquiry about the taste of the most rare and sought-after wines. On my way to Edinburgh's Home House, my feelings were mixed. On the one hand my excitement was
bordering on the extreme. In a few moments I would taste my way through a series of vintages of Château Cheval Blanc, in recent years the star of Bordeaux's Right Bank. To cap it all, Château d'Yquem was also being served – a wine many regard as the world's finest. I couldn't have been more excited if Sir Alex had called and said: "Why don't you go and play up front with Ronaldo and Rooney?"
But I also knew I had to concentrate on the matter in hand. So for those who have always wanted to know what it's like, read on.
Cheval Blanc sits on a pocket of deep gravelly soil, north-west of Saint Emilion on Bordeaux's Right Bank. Perched on top of a gentle incline, bordering the neighbouring appellation of Pomerol, the soil is interspersed with clay, sand and iron. This is important, for it is this unique terroir that enables its winemaker to grow rich, perfumed cabernet franc that takes well to the soils surrounding Saint Emilion.
Although lacking the colour of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, the cabernet franc grown at Cheval Blanc produces a richly aromatic wine with spicy, herbaceous notes. The other variety in the blend, merlot, also thrives on this soil, adding a plummy, full-bodied character.
The wine's effect on the tastebuds and palate are immediate. Very rich, opulent and lush, these wines slip down in a swirl of silky tannins, impeccable acidity and super-ripe, black fruit. Detailed tasting notes are below, but the obvious simile is the difference in feel on the skin between a cashmere scarf and a woollen one.
Château d'Yquem sits in the heart of Sauternes. Its most famous boast is that one vine of grapes goes into making one glass of wine. The rich, sweet concentration is sensational.
The 1997 I tasted was near perfection with an enthralling nose of caramel, honey and an almost syrupy character, and yet the acidity, freshness and power were retained. It went beautifully with a small slice of roquefort cheese. On this occasion, even I was persuaded it was worth its gold-plated price tag. Certainly there are very good clarets or Bordeaux blends on the market for a fraction of the price, but even in the rarefied world of fine wine the d'Yquem was very, very special.
Would I pay £157? A pair of tickets for last night's Bon Jovi concert at Hampden Park would set me back £160. No offence to the Philadelphia rockers, but I know which one I would prefer…
2004 Château Cheval Blanc, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, 12.5%, £165Still very young with a dark, brooding colour reminiscent of a Pomerol. With time in the glass the nose opened up to reveal a soft, sensuous, velvety, violet character. But it was on the palate that this wine really impressed, with a mellow, purring smoothness. A vibrant, fresh acidity will allow this to age for a very long time.
1996 Château Cheval Blanc, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, 12.5%, £170A wine with real attitude and character. Vibrant and fresh on the nose, there is an unmistakable feel of spices, earthy flavours from the forest floor and a sweet, smoky character. I was surprised at the liveliness of the tannins and the fruit, which gives it a fair amount of grip on the palate.
1997 Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 14%, £157Without descending into extreme hyperbole, this is quite simply one of the most outstanding wines I have ever had the good fortune to taste. In the glass it sits with a rich, golden hue. The nose is sensational and has a honeyed, almost treacle pudding character from its rich, smoky botrytis. Then pow! A wave of pinpointed freshness envelopes the palate before a creamy, vanillin, sweet fruit flavour. The structure of this wine is incredible.
Stockists: Bibendum Wine (01259 763 716,
www.bibendum-wine.co.uk)
The full article contains 735 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
