AN AIR of slight amazement still surrounds English wine. Despite being recognised by virtually every international critic as a viable producer of sparkling wine, winning a swathe of awards and gaining shelf space in most supermarkets and specialist s
tores, the English wine industry is characterised by charming, gentle understatement.
The English Wine Producers' annual tasting was held at Lord's cricket ground on April 23 – rather appropriately, St George's Day. As the groundsmen busied themselves clearing the worst of the rain for Middlesex's three-day match against Glamorgan, we got down to the business of tasting our way through nearly 100 English wines. And what a charmingly unpretentious affair it was. The razzmatazz and swagger of the large Australian and New Zealand tastings was absent, as was the faux grandeur that can taint French tastings. In short, this was more like a Saturday-afternoon village fête than a large, metropolitan tasting.
At one point, as a representative from one of the regional vineyards attempted to open a bottle of sparkling wine, it exploded all over his table – an unimaginable scenario among the sophisticates of Champagne. And yet the Champenois have been scouting around England's southern counties for a while now. Intrigued by the quality of wines achieved by such producers as Denbies, Nyetimber, Chapel Down and Ridgeview, they have been eager to explore the chalk hills of Kent and Sussex, where the conditions mirror those of their own region. A lot of press coverage has been devoted to these scouting missions but, so far, only one small experimental plot in Hampshire has been planted by a consortium part-owned by a small champagne producer. The first vintage is due to be picked later this year; all eyes will be on the quality of the grapes.
What has attracted the French is the standard of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier achieved in England. Many put this down to the fact that the two regions share similar conditions – both sit on the same chalky limestone escarpment. An outstanding run of vintages, including the heatwave of 2003, has produced a crop of grapes enabling the production of highly aromatic, light, racy sparkling wine. These are the ones that are grabbing all the attention – not the red wines or the majority of the whites, which are interesting but often too expensive to compete with their international counterparts.
Unlike Scotland, whose wine industry is centred around a product made from berries, honey or flowers, English wine does have a viable future. But this lies with sparkling wine. And while Nyetimber (favoured by Prince Charles and served at the Queen's Golden Jubilee celebrations) was undoubtedly one of the stars of the tasting, at £25 to £28 a bottle it is getting into serious champagne territory. The market obviously decides the ultimate price, but when you pitch yourself above Pol Roger White Foil (£27.95), you have to be very good indeed.
Where I think a marketable niche can be achieved is with wines such as Three Choirs' excellent Classic Cuvée, which is delicate and floral, with a pleasant, refreshing acidity and a rounded savoury mouth-feel – and which comes in at just £10.25 a bottle. I am informed it is selling very quickly. That doesn't surprise me: if I was getting married this summer, I would be sorely tempted to serve it.
Three Choirs Classic Cuvée, Newent, Gloucestershire, £10.25A blend of 80% seyval blanc and 20% pinot noir, this has the dry, savoury kick necessary for good sparkling wine. Floral on the nose, with a delicate, thrilling acidity; and at this price, it ticks all the right boxes.
2001 Nyetimber Classic Cuvée, West Chiltington, West Sussex, £25This blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier is even richer than the more famous blanc de blancs, but somehow retains its freshness. It has red fruit on the nose and a clean finish.
2004 Chapel Down Sparkling English Rosé, Tenterden, Kent, £20A charming wine that evokes memories of long, hot English summer days. An attractive nose with floral notes of wild strawberries, citrus and redcurrants. The palate is dry with good ripeness.
Stockists Waitrose, Tesco, Sainsbury's, Majestic, Harvey Nichols, Edinburgh (0131 524 8322); Luvians Bottleshop, Cupar (01334 654820)
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