WINE-BUYERS be warned: the supermarkets are mobilising. The great super-powers of the high street are already readying their ammunition for a ferocious Christmas battle.
This year, all the evidence suggests that after more than a decade of peace, once again war will break out in the peaceful wine aisles of Britain's multiples.
Two for one, three for two and 25% off are just the start. And despite the Scottish go
vernment looking to restrict such promotions, wine-buying in this country is about to get very cheap indeed. "Since the middle of last year, we have seen a return to the trend where supermarkets are using alcohol as a driver to get people through their doors," says Danny Gibson, head of wine-buying at German discount chain Aldi. "We are entering a period of intense promotional activity, and prices will fall."
Paradoxically, this comes at a time when most independent wine merchants and smaller multiples are looking to put prices up. The costs of transport, bottling and duty have risen this year, while the pound has also dropped significantly against the euro in recent months. One euro now costs almost 80p, against roughly 65p in early 2007. Anyone importing huge quantities of wine from France will be feeling more than a little squeezed, so against this backdrop you may ask how anyone can drop their prices so low.
To look for an answer you have to analyse the promotions. This Christmas there will be a lot of wine on offer swilling around the £3 mark – some of which, I am sure, will be very good. There are many ways one can implement costs savings to shave the price off a wine. Shipping in tanks and bottling in Europe is one example. A freighter carrying wine from Chile takes four weeks and a day. By transporting the wine in tanks, you can carry the equivalent of 32,000 bottles – as opposed to 18,000 if bottled at source. But north of £5, the story will be very different, as retailers will look to increase the price of premium wines.
A wine that was £14.99 in 2007 may well be £15.50-£16.50 in 2008. Similarly, wines that were £6.99 are now tipping over the £8 mark. Connoisseurs in Decanter magazine this week agreed that £6.99 should be enough to buy a "decent" bottle of wine, but Sainsbury's recently polled its customers and found that there is a significant demand for the £7-£10 category – possibly surprising in the current financial climate. So while we are filling up the car with cheap plonk, we are also trading up for the occasional treat.
At Aldi, Gibson has built up a portfolio based around the concept of value for money. The list is peppered with wines that have lively acidity and low alcohol, with an emphasis on cleanliness and consistency. The chain's Le Dolomie pinot grigio (£4.99) is a case in point. Extremely fresh with peachy, acacia notes and a weightier finish, it's classic pinot grigio at an affordable price. But there are also some serious wines. The Champagne Carlin Cru (£14.99) has a powerful yeasty nose and real bite. With such buying-power (Aldi sold more than 17 million bottles in the UK last year), Gibson has the opportunity to shape the style of wine we drink. So if you are feeling the pinch, Aldi is well worth a visit. The wines highlighted below will not disappoint.
Vignes De St Pierre Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, France, £3.99
Fresh clean and zippy, this is a snip at the price. The nose is all tropical fruits with notes of gooseberry, pineapple and a fresh herbaceousness. Yet the palate is bone dry with a savoury, steely finish.
Tierra Del Sol Argentine Chardonnay Torrontes, Argentina, £3.49
An interesting unoaked chardonnay. Not too heavy, it has a very forward, tropical character with a ripe-apple flavour. The palate offers weight and a pleasant dry finish.
Valpolicella Ripasso Doc, Italy, £4.99
This is a serious wine for the money. Heavily perfumed, it has a powerful, smooth, weighty character, with notes of raspberry and liquorice.
Stockist: Aldi
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