Let it flow

MUST-SEES in Ontario are Toronto, Niagara Falls and… vineyards. Forget maple syrup – Canadian wine-makers have transformed frozen grapes into something far more exciting for the table.

THE kaleidoscope of oranges, ochres, reds, russets and browns stretches away on either side of the road, all dramatically framed in a clear, blue sky. It's little wonder that Sir Winston Churchill, a man who had seen a bit of the planet in his time, described a slow ride up the tree-lined avenue of Niagara Parkway as "the best Sunday afternoon drive in the world".

Leaving the primeval roar of the falls behind, the Parkway meanders northwards through the maple and fir woods that line the Niagara river, as it swirls through rapids and whirlpools to empty into the expanse of Lake Ontario.

It's obvious why Sir Winston, connoisseur of natural splendour that he was, loved this picture-postcard corner of Canada, with its cauldron of wild waters, jaw-dropping autumn displays of colour and neat apple-pie villages.

What he wouldn't have seen – and the other main reason for leaving Toronto and heading for 90 minutes down the Queen Elizabeth Way – is grapes. For, through a quirk of nature, in the narrow stretch of land bounded by the lake to the north and an all-protecting limestone escarpment to the south, are the vineyards of southern Ontario.

Strange as it may seem for a landscape that enjoys stiflingly hot summers and extremely cold, snowbound winters, more than 50 vineyards are crammed into an area just 50km long and 10km wide. The quality of the whites and reds produced here are globally recognised – unsurprising when you realise that the Niagara area is on the same latitude as Burgundy.

However, Niagara has one further trick up its sleeve. Vintners in Germany and Austria may have developed the concept of icewines – intensely aromatic wines produced from frozen grapes in the dead of winter – but the Europeans lack the consistent climate that has helped their Canadian rivals elevate their production to a fine art.

Off the Parkway – just beyond the point where Captain Murray and a brave band of Scots Guards launched a successful attack on the American fort across the river during the War of Independence – lies Inniskillin vineyard, set up by canny icewine pioneers Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser in 1975.

Outside the historic barn, which has been turned into a bustling visitor centre, vino-tourists from around the world come to stand beside the small icewine sign to have their photograph taken.

In the autumn, the grapes are still growing and ripening in their tight bunches, and the snow that will bring them to harvest is still some weeks away. When the first flakes begin to fall, that's the signal for intense activity by the vineyard staff, who will cover the vines with a protective netting. Otherwise, the huge flocks of hungry blackbirds that gather on Lake Ontario's southern shore would snaffle the lot before the human pickers arrived.

Then it's a matter of sitting tight until temperatures plummet below the legal stipulation of -8ûC, usually some time in January and almost always at night. At these temperatures, the water content of the grapes freezes and the well-wrapped pickers get to work in the chilly air. The harvest is pressed before sunrise to release the fructose-laden, aromatic, flavour-rich, unfrozen liquid at the centre of each grape. Allowed to settle for a few days, it is then clarified and fermented using specially cultivated yeasts.

It's almost a labour of love for the wine-makers of Ontario. Icewines are relatively expensive, at upwards of £25 for a half-bottle, but that reflects the work that goes into making it, and its scarcity.

At Inniskillin, although only just over 30 years old, icewine-making has been taken to new heights. Visitors can sample a range of tastings involving different grape varieties, including vidal (a grape with a tough skin that is less prone to crack when frozen), riesling and a rosy-coloured, elegant cabernet franc, that weighs in at a hefty £55 per bottle. What will bring you back for more, however, is the truly stunning Vidal Sparkling, which mixes the bubbly thrill of champagne with the icewine's glorious peach-and-apricot sweetness.

Ontario vintners have grouped together to promote driving routes through the rolling landscapes from vineyard to vineyard as well as devise cycle routes. The area is also peppered with high-quality restaurants and hotels, but a cheaper option can be that great North American alternative, the Recreational Vehicle, or RV. It's your own home on wheels and a popular choice for visitors to the Niagara Falls region and its well-organised, edge-of-town campsites.

The falls have never lost their legendary status since the first 17th-century explorers returned to the UK to describe the "incredible cataract". In fact, there are three: the American and Bridal Veil Falls on the US side, and the Horseshoe Falls in Canada, where 700,000 gallons of water per second drop 200ft into the deep bowl below.

There is a variety of ways to see them, including the ten-minute flights by Niagara Helicopters, providing a unique perspective on how this magnificent river system flows together. You can take a trip behind the Falls, down tunnels constructed by engineers, or hop aboard the Maid of the Mist, the cruise boat that enters the so-called 'wet zone' beneath the mighty Horseshoe cataract.

Or, as many visitors do, you can simply stroll upriver and stand next to the torrent as it pours over the lip to the depths below. It's hard to forget the Niagara roar either during the day or at night, when the falls change colour in an unmissable light show.

When Toronto, the gateway to the region, beckons, see this as a bonus. The city is a vibrant cultural centre and is taking its heritage seriously, with conversions of semi-derelict sites – such as the Old Distillery district – into popular attractions for foodie tourists. Walking tours are available and are the best way to quickly get your bearings.

An elegant base is the Fairmont Royal York Hotel, a landmark building right out of Gotham City, built by Canadian Pacific Railway in 1929 for the convenience of passengers alighting at nearby Union Station. Its guest list includes presidents, royals and wealthy celebrities.

Sandwiched between the waterfront and the financial district, it is rightly famous for its dry martinis and lobster, served in its flagship restaurant. It is also renowned for its rooftop herb garden, from where the views are sensational and the grapes are ripening.

It's not yet the world's first city-centre hotel vineyard, but it might be one day.

Fact file

Canadian Affair (0141 248 6777, www.canadianaffair.com) flies direct to Toronto from Glasgow and Edinburgh, with fares starting at £99 one way, including taxes and charges. Tailor-made packages are available with a full range of options, including hotels (from budget to luxury), car hire, train tours, motorhomes, fly drives, escorted tours, excursions and activities.

The five-star Fairmont Royal York Hotel, Toronto, costs from £53 per person per night, and taking a CanaDream motorhome to explore Niagara or other areas costs from £33 per day. Flights are operated by Thomas Cook Airlines. Taste of Toronto tours with Shirley Lum can be viewed at www.torontowalksbikes.com.