Cape crusader

OF the many hours I have spent adventuring along the wine route, none has been more dramatic and spectacular than the lush green valleys and jagged, granite mountain ranges of South Africa's Cape Vinelands.

We left Stellenbosch early, before sunrise, heading north towards Breedekloof and a breakfast meeting comprised of 13 still fermenting chenin blancs, samples of six sauvignons and a handful of chardonnays. It's still early days but judging on what I tasted, this year's vintage will be remembered for the quality of the sauvingon blanc and cabernet sauvignon.

The Cape possesses some of the oldest geology in the wine-growing world and three centuries of wine-making lineage. But perhaps more than any other wine region, the fate of South Africa's vinelands has been inextricably bound with the politics and history of its nation, and for many years they have not been on its side. By the end of the 19th century the collapse of the British market after the Anglo Boer war brought many hardships to South African winemakers and tales of British atrocities towards the Afrikaner community during that time make for sobering reading.

It has been more than a decade since FW de Klerk negotiated the National Party out of power and the wine industry has moved on considerably since then. A few years ago the first black winemakers emerged from the oenology faculty at Stellenbosch University and a black shareholding group acquired 25% of one of South Africa's leading wine groups, KWV. These may seem small events but the shifts are significant.

However, for all the excitement that followed 1994, in this stage of South Africa's wine evolution we still do not have a distinctive 'style' emerging. I have tasted some phenomenal Bordeaux blends from the Cape that could be mistaken for top-end Medoc, such as Kanonkop and Vergelegen. Hamilton Russell creates a complex, luscious Burgundian pinot noir and Meerlust, Eaglevlei, Rustenberg and Thelema are also worth seeking out.

Perhaps it is fitting for the rainbow nation that, alongside these sit a raft of jammy, tropical New World-style wines. Certainly there has been a huge investment in the winelands recently and there is an energy and excitement surrounding the industry, with a feeling that the best is yet to come.

One grape variety that has really found its feet in recent years is sauvignon blanc. Indeed, among the many I have tasted, I would go as far to say that it is now overshadowing chenin in the white wine stakes, being the fastest growing premium varietal in the Capelands with a number of cool spots producing parcels of notable quality. Another significant trend is the increase in quality outside the golden triangle of Constantia, Stellenbosch and Paarl.

Richard Meadows, owner of Edinburgh's Great Grog warehouse, will be hosting a South African wine fair in Edinburgh on April 22 which should prove an interesting tasting.

Private Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Spier, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.5%, £10.99

Spier's Private Collection range is a big step up in quality from the rest of its portfolio. Winemaker Eleonor Visser has achieved an intense, mineral sauvignon with notes of fig leaf and a powerful ripe gooseberry flavour.

Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Bon Courage, Robertson, South Africa, 13%, £7.25

This sits in the New World style with a zingy, refreshing and quite frankly mouth-watering acidity. Intense gooseberry flavours and a clean, powerful finish.

John X Merriman 2005, Rustenberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.5%, £10.29

A quite outstanding Bordeaux-style blend. Attractive, soft tannins and warm, spicy earthiness illustrate the potential of this style of wine in the Cape.

Stockists: Great Grog, Edinburgh (0131 555 0222, www.greatgrog.co.uk); www.everywine.co.uk; Waitrose