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Walk of the week: Seacliff, East Lothian



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Published Date: 22 June 2008
SUMMER is here, so pack your bucket and spade and head for the beach, whatever the weather.
Scotland is blessed with some of the best beaches in Europe; if the average temperature was ten degrees warmer, not only would stories of growing grapes actually become true, but I fear our relatively unspoiled coastline would be populated by throngs
of sunseekers and all their paraphernalia.

Even now, a sunny day can mean some of the better-known stretches of sand are rather busy, but there are still many quieter places to enjoy. Despite fervent wishes for warm sunshine, it should be remembered that in windy weather, when the tops of waves are whipped up into a foaming frenzy, a walk along the beach can be an exhilarating experience (although the picnic should probably be eaten in the car).

One place only just off the beaten track where you can often enjoy a stunning beach in peace and quiet is Seacliff, just to the east of North Berwick. Here you have a fine stretch of sand, fascinating rocks to explore and the stunning sight of the Bass Rock just offshore. Take some binoculars because each year 140,000 Atlantic gannets nest on the rock – the world's largest single rock gannet colony.

The beach itself is great for children who might simply want to play, but other members of the family can enjoy a walk. As well as the Bass Rock, the other sight that grabs attention is a cross on top of a stone beacon. This marks rocks known as St Baldred's Boat, named after an eighth-century missionary based in the area.

The walk first takes you to The Gegan – another outcrop of rocks where you will come across one of the smallest harbours in the world, carved out of rock with the help of a steam engine and compressed air at the end of the 19th century by a laird of Seacliff. From here you also get a fantastic view of the 14th-century stronghold of the Douglases, Tantallon Castle. Don't be tempted to clamber over the rocks to its ramparts – the way is difficult and you are more than likely to be stranded.

Do, however, explore the rockpools close at hand before heading back down the beach and past St Baldred's Boat to a small bay from where, through the trees, you get a glimpse of the ruins of Seacliff House, which was originally built in the 18th century but burned down in 1907.

Make sure you take plenty of time to enjoy the beach – the walk itself only takes about an hour but you should allow more time to explore the rocks, watch gannets or build a sandcastle. Take care if the tide is in or coming in as it is possible to be stranded, especially near The Gegan. Check tide times at www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast/tides.

Distance 1.25 miles.

Height climbed Negligible.

Time 1 hour.

Map OS Landranger 67.

Park

Drive 3.5 miles along the A198 Dunbar road from North Berwick and turn off on the outside of a sharp right-hand bend at Auldhame (half a mile after the turning for Tantallon Castle). Go down the track (signed as a private road) for about half a mile, where you have to pay £2 to get through an automatic barrier. Keep going down the track for another half a mile, ignoring potential parking spots, until you reach a large grassy area on the left.

In summary

A sandy path leads from the parking area, between an old boat and some very derelict toilets then through trees and bushes, to the beach.

Go left along the beach and at the end explore a small harbour, carved from rocks marked The Gegan on the OS Landranger 67 map. Walk back along the beach, past the path to the car park and St Baldred's Boat, to a smaller beach. Return to the car park.

Refreshments

There's nothing at the beach but it's a spot crying out for a picnic. Alternatively, North Berwick and Dunbar (a few miles south along the A198) have a range of places to eat.

While you are in the area

With the Bass Rock just offshore, the obvious place to head for is North Berwick and the Scottish Seabird Centre (01620 890202, www.seabird.org) which offers interactive exhibitions as well as telescopes and live webcams to see the gannets on Bass Rock. In addition, a number of boat trips leave from the harbour in the town.



The full article contains 763 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
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  • Last Updated: 21 June 2008 11:36 AM
  • Source: Scotland On Sunday
  • Location: Scotland
  • Related Topics: Walk of the Week
 
 

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