THE Southern Uplands offer some of the best remote country in Britain. Rising above 2,500ft, they can be tough on the legs, but the rewards are great. This walk takes you by the side of Grey Mare's Tail (a 200ft waterfall named in honour of the horse in Robert Burns' 'Tam o' Shanter') to a moorland plateau, then up to one of the highest points in the south of Scotland and along a broad ridge with extensive views.
This is a great place to spot feral goats, which graze on the steep-sided gorge, and peregrine falcons soaring above. Look out for stoats darting
about on the lower slopes – at this time of year they're known as ermine, when their coat is a brilliant white.
The early part of the walk is dominated by the waterfall and it is worth taking your time here, firstly because the path is quite steep and secondly because it is truly impressive. When the temperature is low, blocks of ice can be seen in the pools below the falls.
The noise of crashing water fades away to silence as you leave the gorge behind and are presented with a wide amphitheatre of hills above a plateau of peat and heather.
You have to cross Tail Burn here, which can be tricky if there has been a lot of rain. Look for an old wall going off to Upper Tarnberry on the far side, then walk along about 40 yards and splash across some shallows, or pick your way over rocks.
The wall then leads to Rough Craigs, at first sight rather daunting but in reality only a little huffing and puffing is necessary to clamber up a path of loose stones. (You may need to use your hands to steady yourself but there is no real danger unless the wind is particularly strong. The wall then leads you to White Coomb which, at 2,694ft, is the highest hill in Dumfriesshire. Expect views as far as the Lake District and the Cheviots on a clear day. Closer to hand are the rolling Southern Uplands and vast swathes of moorland.
As you descend over Firthhope Rig and the fantastically named Donald's Cleuch Head, the eye is drawn to the great bulk of Lochcraig Head looming over Loch Skeen. This can be added to the route if you have the energy. Otherwise, drop down over a grassy hill to the loch – a great place to linger among high hills before following Tail Burn back to the start.
This route covers high, rough terrain which is rocky in places and boggy in others, so full mountain gear is needed. It can be difficult to find your way in low cloud and mist so make sure you have a map and a compass and that you know how to use them.
Distance 6 miles.
Height climbed 2,230ft.
Time 4 to 4.5 hours.
Map OS Landranger 79.
Park About ten miles north of Moffat and six miles south of St Mary's Loch on the A708 is a National Trust for Scotland car park by the side of the road (£2 charge for non-members).
In summary From the north-west side of Tail Burn follow a well-made path above the waterfalls. As Tail Burn levels out, cross it at some shallows, 40 yards after an old wall on the other side. Once over it, go back downstream to the wall and follow it, right, over Upper Tarnberry.
Cross a slight depression and continue by the wall to the base of Rough Craigs. When the wall ends, bear right and follow a path going steeply up the slope, bearing left.
Rejoin the wall and follow it up and to the right. Go left, crossing over the wall as it begins to descend, to reach the summit cairn of White Coomb. Return to the wall and go left to reach Firthhope Rig, then sharp right to go over Donald's Cleuch Head. At the col before Firthybrig Head, go right, traverse left and follow a path south-east, right, over a grassy hill. Drop down the other side steeply to reach the edge of Loch Skeen. A path leads off to the right, after crossing the start of Tail Burn, back to Grey Mare's Tail and the car park.
Refreshments Tibbie Shiels Inn on the shore of St Mary's Loch is the closest place – the old coaching inn is about six miles north, up the A708.
While you are in the area There is a visitor centre at the car park with CCTV of peregrine falcons, but it is only open in June, July and August.
The full article contains 789 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
