Across the fast-flowing River Tilt, a herd of red deer had crossed into forbidden territory; land earmarked for forest regeneration. "If they're not out of there by Monday, they'd better get their tin hats on," says Reid.
On the Atholl estate, lik
e many in Scotland trying hard to balance the twin worlds of land conservation and earning a living from deer stalking, woe betide animals that stray into the wrong area.
Reid has been patrolling the 145,000-acre Atholl estate for almost half a century, but he is as likely now to be taking out visitors on dawn tours to observe the wildlife as he is to bag them for the pot.
He had turned up at the appointed time, 8am sharp, to drag us reluctantly from our base – Kindrochet Lodge, a luxury eight-bedroom lodge – and show us what his domain has to offer. On he ploughs, up into the glens above the fairy-tale turrets of Blair Castle, seat of the earls of Atholl since the 13th century. As the moor spreads out, hundreds of red deer, mainly males, detect our approach and start moving slowly up the hill. As they stop at a safe distance, we can still see their dark profiles, antlers outstanding, silhouetted against the sky.
Above them, three smaller roe deer bounce energetically, like kangaroos on speed, while the round fat blobs of black grouse graze nearby on heather shoots. As Sandy hands out pairs of binoculars to let us get a closer look, it is hard to believe we are only about a mile from the busy A9.
Atholl Estates is now enthusiastically embracing eco-tourism, with hopes to attract increasing numbers of visitors who just want to see the native wildlife in its own habitat. Visitors can even view webcam footage of a golden eagle's nest, high on the slopes above.
Kindrochet is one of five Victorian estate lodges that have been refurbished to offer accommodation to groups who want their own house party amid the splendours of the Perthshire Highlands.
For entertaining, Kindrochet, on the edge of the village of Struan, is perfect. Set in its own grounds, it has room for 16 guests – plus a cook, if required – and has a well-equipped kitchen, an elegant dining-room and twin drawing-rooms with log fires.
We staged a murder-mystery evening, set in the early 1900s, and it would have been harder to find better or more atmospheric surroundings. Between clues, we dined on succulent organic beef and lamb, which was delivered to the house from the estate farm. After the complexities of the game, the gentlemen, as tradition demands, retired to the snooker room.
Next morning, the castle itself beckoned – entry and a tour are free for those staying at the lodges. Blair Castle is not a tourist magnet without good reason – even the hall, with its impressive armoury, including pieces from Culloden, is a show-stopper. But it is guides such as Sandy McGill who bring the astonishing history of one of Scotland's oldest aristocratic families alive, entertaining us with tales of Atholl derring-do and indiscretions, while showing off the family apartments and wonderful heirlooms.
He even gave house space to one of our party – a Robertson from the neighbouring clan, not always the best of friends – to play his pipes in the grand ballroom, used every year for piping competitions because of its breathtaking acoustics. Apparently, Blair Castle is to pipers what St Andrews is to golfers. We all listened, enthralled, then applauded spontaneously.
Jeremy WatsonFACT FILE
Guests can hire Kindrochet from £1,870 a week. See
www.athollestateslodges.co.uk for more information.
Dawn Land Rover tours can be booked on 01796 481355 or via the estate's website.
You can have organic meat delivered to your lodge through Atholl Glens Organic Meat (01796 481482, www.athollglens.co.uk).
Forest Holidays AS THE sodden walkers trudged by, heads down against the rain, we agreed that it was a shame they couldn't muster much enthusiasm for the surroundings. We were soaked to the skin too, but still able to appreciate the natural grandeur surrounding us.
On the verdant shores of Loch Lubnaig, with Ben Ledi towering behind us, we were simply enjoying the scent of the Scots pines, the fresh air and the feel of the pure, soft rain. Just the sort of smug tree-huggers that, had our roles been reversed, we'd have loathed. But there was no room for such negative vibes. To be fair, our feelgood rating had been boosted by the fact that we were not only immersed in the great outdoors, we were also immersed in our own private hot tub – along with a few extra bubbles, courtesy of Veuve Clicquot.
Roughing it was never on the agenda for our girls' weekend. One of our number did have a slight wobble when the shops stopped four miles away, in Callander, and the street lights disappeared before we had reached our final destination, along a single-track road. But once we finally arrived at our Golden Oak cabin, we knew everything was going to be all right.
The site itself is nestled in one of the most scenic parts of the country, and the cabins are dotted around so that no one overlooks their neighbours. Our three-bedroom cabin had plenty of room for the six of us – comfortable for eight if two were to sleep in the living-room, with its cosy log-burning stove. The master bedroom has a luxurious en suite, where we each enjoyed a soak in the solitude of the huge bath when we needed a break from the chat and squeals in the hot tub.
An additional large, slate-floored shower-room meant there was never any problem timetabling ablutions – and helped accommodate our extensive range of pampering products. Nails were painted, eyelashes curled and skin fake-baked before an hour or two in the hot tub undid all the good work and we had to start again.
Views from the tub are great – although perhaps better for us looking out than any poor walkers looking in. But views are good from the inside too – the master bedroom has floor-to-ceiling windows, so at the flick of a blind you can enjoy the great outdoors from the comfort of your bed. The lounge and dining-room also has almost a complete wall of glass. On the practical side, bed linen, towels and robes are provided, and the kitchen comes equipped with everything you could need – including a dishwasher.
Forest Holidays has three locations – Strathyre, Yorkshire and Cornwall. We chose the local one, so we could get away from it all quickly. The firm is run in partnership with the Forestry Commission, so there are all sorts of ranger-led activities focusing on the environment and the native wildlife.
We didn't take part in anything quite so active, but did learn from the information centre on site that the cabin's low lighting at night is an attempt to avoid disturbing the nocturnal pursuits of the wildlife. We can only hope that our nocturnal bathing didn't upset the little blighters either.
Since you can see Ben Ledi from the cabin, we felt there was no point in walking all the way up there. We did manage a few walks, but left the biking and serious hiking to those who, we can only presume, have no hot tub. And as we headed for home, we were already looking forward to our next wet weekend in the Trossachs.
Clare TroddenFACT FILE
Prices start from £274 for a four-night mid-week stay in a Golden Oak cabin, or £324 for a three-night weekend stay. For details, contact Forest Holidays (0845 130 8224,
www.forestholidays.co.uk).
Loch Ness CottagesIF THE mystery of Nessie is ever going to be discovered, we surely can't miss it from here. The calm waters of beautiful Loch Ness, all 24 miles of it, stretch out as far as the eye can see, with a backdrop of unspoiled rolling hills dusted with snow on a sunny day. It's a view you could never tire of, and the perfect location for a relaxing family break.
Loch Ness Cottages, where we are staying, is a collection of four purpose-built holiday homes that offer the perfect base for exploring the Highlands and west coast – Fort Augustus, Skye and Fort William are all within driving distance. But if it's R&R you're after, it's just as ideal for not travelling further than the end of the road.
The cottages are dog-friendly, clean and homely. They may not offer state-of-the-art mod cons, but after a long drive from the Borders, opening the door to find a real log fire, pretty, soft furnishings, homemade shortbread and a bottle of local wine is a pleasant welcome.
All the rooms are located off a long hall at the back of the cottage, ensuring that each bedroom, the living-room, dining-room and kitchen take full advantage of the breathtaking views. The bedrooms have en suites, which are stocked with Molton Brown goodies.
With Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, a pleasant 15-minute drive away, and the small historic town of Drumnadrochit just four miles in the other direction, local amenities are within easy reach. Closer to home, in fact right on the doorstep, is the Clansman Hotel, where we enjoyed dinner at Cobbs restaurant.
If the idea of being without internet access for more than four days sends you into a panic (like my workaholic brother, who came armed with laptop), wi-fi is currently being installed in the hotel.
It had been a long time since we'd had a family holiday (in fact, we last spent time in Inverness a frightening 17 years ago), but a Jacobite cruise really took us back. The hour-long boat trip, which departs just a stone's throw from the cottage, is a superb way to experience the magnificence of the loch and its stunning attractions, such as the ancient ruins of Urquhart Castle. You can even go ashore for an hour to explore the castle, grounds and exhibition centre.
You can learn more about the area at the Loch Ness Exhibition in Drumnadrochit, which gives an insight into the loch's wider significance. But after a week, try as we did to unravel the mystery of the monster, it remains just that.
Katie WhiteFACT FILE
By car from Inverness, Loch Ness Cottages (01456 459469,
www.lochnesscottages.com) are about eight miles from the outskirts of the city, travelling south-west on the main A82. Prices start from £480 per week for a fully equipped one-bedroom cottage, and from £560 per week for a two-bed.
Jacobite cruises (01463 233999,
www.jacobite.co.uk) cost from £9.50 to £31.
