Wine: Murray's midas touch

A FEW summers ago, I paid a memorable visit to Sir David Murray's vineyard at the foot of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy.

That day, the sleepy, almost forgotten village of Santenay was shaken out of its August slumber as the Rangers chairman jetted in with an A-list entourage, including Sir Sean Connery and the football club's chief executive. They were visiting Domaine Jessiaume, the latest acquisition in Murray's burgeoning empire.

At the time, the steel magnate was full of plans about how he was going to take a little-known, family-run estate and transform it into one of Burgundy's hottest properties. New cellars, better labels and a marketing strategy led by his son Keith were top of his list.

The acquisition of Edinburgh Wine Importers, an independent wine distributor, soon followed as Murray – who already owned Château Routas in Provence – brought his total investment in wine up to the £20 million mark.

Santenay is known for its marl-rich soil, which gives its reds an earthier, more rustic character. The 2004 vintage we tasted then was 'proper', in that the wines were well constructed, reflected the local terroir and tasted unmistakably Burgundian. They had potential but there was still work to be done. I made a mental note to revisit the wines at a later date.

Meanwhile, my article had caused quite a stir. I later found out it was the talk of Santenay; certainly, it was the talk of the British wine trade, who wanted to know all about the Scottish businessman-turned-vigneron. On one memorable occasion, I was approached by Master of Wine Jancis Robinson at a tasting in London to enquire about the quality of "Murray's wines".

Then a few months ago, an innocuous list of wines landed in my in-tray that led me to revisit Jessiaume. Compiled by America's hugely influential Wine Spectator magazine, it was billed as "a first look at Burgundy's most exciting wines in 2005". Jessiaume Père et Fils had three mentions.

It is a remarkable achievement. In the first vintage under his stewardship, Murray has achieved what some vignerons spend a decade or longer striving for – a mention in arguably the world's most powerful consumer wine magazine, regarded by many as the holy grail of the American market.

How, you may ask, has he done it? Good husbandry in the cellars is certainly a factor – taking the sales and marketing responsibilities away from the family has allowed the winemakers to focus on what they do best: making wine.

But perhaps the decisive factor is the outstanding quality of the 2005. The wines are silkier; the fruit more supple than I remembered, with greater concentration. The Volnay Brouillards is a class act.

"There you go, Will," says Murray from his Edinburgh office. "I have done exactly what I said I was going to do." I couldn't disagree.

2005 Santenay Gravières, Domaine Jessiaume Père et Fils, Burgundy, France, 13%, £17.63

This is a powerful wine that needs cellaring and will improve with decanting. Blood-red in the glass, it has an autumnal, vegetal character reminiscent of the forest floor. Interestingly, it is fruitier on the palate, with cherry flavours coming through. The tannins are quite lively and there is a long, spicy finish.

2005 Beaune Cent Vignes, Domaine Jessiaume Père et Fils, Burgundy, France, 13%, £19.49

An altogether more rounded and hedonistic wine, with soft, forward plum, raspberry and black-cherry flavours. The spiciness is present but there is an attractive suppleness too.

2006 Volnay Brouillards, Domaine Jessiaume, Burgundy, France, 13%, £26.83

A class act, bursting with notes of ripe cherry that sit above a gentle vegetal aroma. The palate is incredibly supple, with silky, soft tannins, while the strength of the acidity refreshes. The overall character is one of refinement.

Stockists: Edinburgh Wine Importers, Livingston (01506 468900)