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Walk of the week: Ben Hope, Sutherland



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Published Date: 11 May 2008
THE top 100. The best ever. The absolute number one. It is almost impossible to create a definitive 'best of' list when it comes to mountains – one person's trudge is another's exhilarating stride. A long walk can be boring or awe-inspiring depending on who you speak to.
Another problem is comparing one area of the country to another. It is not fair – all areas of the outdoors have their own, individual beauty. To paraphrase the great Scottish environmentalist John Muir, it doesn't matter where you are in nature, it
is always a good place to be.

Sometimes, however, the debate sparked by lists does inspire even greater things, as well as highlighting an interesting subject. Next month, the charity WaterAid will team up with Trail magazine to attempt to place someone on the summit of Britain's favourite 100 mountains at the same time. It will also raise money to give access to safe drinking water and sanitation in Africa and Asia. For more information go to www.wateraidtrail100.org.

One of the mountains is on my list of favourites – I know that doesn't mean it is on everyone's, but it is a worthy contender (I'm debating with myself now). Ben Hope is the most northerly Munro. The drive across isolated country to the base of the mountain is enjoyable in itself. And with views across the far north of Scotland and beyond to Orkney, the panorama is one of the best from any mountain.

A sign indicates the way from the roadside. The route is marshy and hard-going, especially after rain, but the trudge is worth it as you gain height and begin to see the vast expanse of wilderness spread across Sutherland.

Once you reach the stony southern slopes, it becomes a lot steeper, but the wet conditions underfoot are left behind. Look south for a view of hundreds of lochans. You may need to take a few breathers but the summit plateau is soon reached.

From the trig point there are 360û views that include the Kyle of Tongue to the north-east, and the Pentland Firth and Orkney beyond. Ben Loyal lies to the east, Ben Klibreck to the south-east and the hills of Assynt further west. To the west lies the bulk of Foinaven, with Cape Wrath to the north-west.

This is some of the most remote country on mainland Scotland and it is there to be savoured – although you are on a Munro, the route is relatively short and it is well worth lingering as long as possible before making your descent from a mountain that definitely makes my top 100.

Distance 41/2 miles.
Height climbed 3,010ft.
Time 4 to 5 hours.
Map OS Landranger 9.

Park

Take the single-track road south from the A838, past Loch Hope (the turning comes after Loch Eriboll if travelling from Durness and before it if coming from Tongue). After 81/2 miles, park near some farm buildings, close to a sign indicating the path to the mountain.

In summary

Follow a sign indicating 'Way Up Ben Hope' for the start of an obvious path. Cross marshy ground then go past waterfalls on the left. After a cluster of holly trees, bear left over more boggy ground. At a fork go either way as both merge after a small escarpment further on.

After going past another escarpment and over more peat bog, you cross a burn before emerging on the southern slopes of the mountain. The path goes left over yet more boggy ground to steeper, rocky slopes. Go right for about 250 yards before bearing left, uphill. From this point to the summit the path is indistinct in places. There are a few cairns, but do not rely on them, as they are small and widely spaced. Take care not to stray too far to the left, as there are sheer drops down the western face.

At a rocky outcrop, go slightly right to reach the trig point. Retrace your steps to the car park.

Refreshments

There is nothing at the start of the walk. Durness, Tongue or Altnaharra are your best bet, all of which are more than half an hour's drive away.

While you are in the area

Sutherland is all about scenery. Head towards Durness, past the looming Loch Eriboll and the spectacular Smoo Cave. Once there, enjoy one of Scotland's best beaches, complete with sea stacks on the sand. A little further on is Balnakiel Bay and Faraid Head – containing a fantastic stretch of dunes and beach.



The full article contains 767 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 09 May 2008 2:30 PM
  • Source: Scotland On Sunday
  • Location: Scotland
  • Related Topics: Walk of the Week
 
 

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