I ONCE asked a Kiwi friend for the quickest way to get to New Zealand. "Easy," he said. "You get into a time machine and press 'reverse' and then get out when it gets to the 1950s."
That was 20 years ago, and the place has changed a lot since then. Where once New Zealand was a cultural sleepy hollow, today it boasts, in Auckland, one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world. Yet the country has managed to drag itself into the 21st century without losing any of its charm or by compromising the rugged landscape that so dazzled in the Lord of the Rings film trilogy.
New Zealand is a country of incredible contrasts, and nowhere better sums that up than the remarkable institution known as Huka Lodge. Nestling by the meandering waters of the Waikato river amid stunning rolling hills and next to the crystal-clear waters of Lake Taupo, Huka is more ranch than hotel. With 20 suites and the owners' cottage all in the grounds, it forms such an idyllic little oasis of luxury that not only was this where the Queen stayed on her last trip, but it is a regular haunt for Kiwi celebrities such as Dame Kiri Te Kanawa as well as for stars such as Billy Connolly, Bill Gates and Diana Ross. The late Sir Edmund Hillary also used to go there.
Despite all that celebrity attention, Huka is a serene spot with the emphasis on anonymity and relaxation. It's all very low key – not noticeably posh or remotely intimidating – but from the outstanding local wines to gourmet food made from local ingredients (trout caught on the Waikato river and venison from the nearby hills, for example), the attention to detail is unmistakable.
We had come to unwind, and in no time at all had relaxed to the point where it was easy to forget we had three demanding children waiting back at home. We lounged in the hot pool, played tennis and walked along the river to the famous Huka Falls, where the gurgling Waikato becomes a torrent as it squeezes through a narrow gap in the rocks, creating the great spray the Maori call Hukanai. After that we loafed around in the steaming hot volcanic streams that lie alongside the Waikato.
The problem is that I'm not really the sort of holidaymaker who likes too much lazing around. I need something to keep the adrenaline pumping, so it wasn't long before I was presenting myself at the front desk ready for action.
I passed on the boar and deer hunting, and gave the turkey and duck shoots an emphatic side-swerve. I even looked the other way when the golf was offered and the tandem skydiving mooted.
The most difficult option to turn down was the fishing, which is why the lodge was built in the first place. Irishman Alan Pye, who erected simple canvas huts on the site, was the pioneer, and while current owner Alex Van Heeren has upped the luxury quotient, he has stayed true to its role as a down-to-earth fishing lodge.
Fly-fishing lessons can be taken on the lawn, with some of the most sought-after rainbow trout fishing in the world available on Lake Taupo. For the adventurous, heli-fishing trips can take you to isolated wilderness streams with expert tuition if required.
But when it came to the water-skiing, 50m bungy-jump, jet-boating and white-water rafting on the raging Rangitaiki, I was there like a shot. Each activity was exactly as it sounded: an adrenaline-fuelled blast. Yet none compared with the black-water rafting experience, where we abseiled into caves and flew down flying-foxes before launching ourselves into the icy water with car inner tubes strapped to our behinds – all of which took place in pitch darkness – ending with a gentle float to the mouth of the caves, staring up at glow worms on the ceiling.
While I was getting my fill of adventure, Beth was enjoying the odd massage, lots of swimming and plenty of reading, the jetty on the Waikato river quickly turning into her favourite spot. Together we visited the legendary Waitomo caves and the Huka Falls by jet-boat and in the evenings gathered in front of the fire in the drawing-room before dinner.
When the time came to leave behind this sleepy corner of the North Island, we felt completely rested and rejuvenated. Which, as it turned out, was a good thing – we were headed for the big city.
Not that Auckland, the harbourside 'City of Sails', is a London or New York. It may have a population of well over a million, but thanks to its tropical climate, coastal location and huge number of Polynesian residents, it remains engagingly laid-back.
We stayed at Mollies, an extraordinarily welcoming little hotel which served as a perfect base for exploring Auckland. It is run by the operatic duo Stephen Fitzgerald and Frances Wilson where, as well as enjoying some of the capital's best seafood, you can listen to the country's finest young opera singers accompanied by Frances on a grand piano.
Even in central Auckland the outdoors was still with us. Sailing is an easily accessible, must-do activity. The adventurous can sail in an Americas Cup yacht and match race its twin; the less outgoing can take one of the regular ferries out to Waiheke Island to sample the wines, beaches and local artisans' produce.
It is worth rounding off your trip by travelling to the top of the 328m Sky Tower, the highest standalone building in the southern hemisphere, for the panoramic views. Incredibly, base-jumpers are allowed to jump off it, so if you ask nicely…
FACT FILE: NEW ZEALANDFlights to Auckland from Edinburgh with KLM start at £893.
A night at Huka Lodge (
www.hukalodge.com) costs £293 per person per night (based on two sharing a double and exclusive of government goods and services tax at 12.5%).
A junior suite for two people at Mollies (
www.mollies.co.nz) costs from around £275 per night.
The full article contains 1052 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
