Food & drink: Survival of the Finest

Heading down to the supermarket for a bottle of wine has its advantages – even for a committed oenophile

IT HAS been ten years since Tesco launched its Finest range. Can it really be that long? For those of you who remember the dark ages of Tesco, well before Dudley Moore popped up on our screens dressed as a chicken, I suspect the speed of this anniversary will come as something of a shock. Moore was, in fact, masquerading as a confused Tesco buyer in search of some free-range eggs. The success of those adverts, which, incidentally, ran nearly 20 years ago, kick-started the reinvention of Tesco.

Back then we were buying most of our wine from Oddbins and Unwins – and how the retail landscape has changed. In a little under 18 years Tesco has revolutionised and come to utterly dominate the supermarket sector. Under head wine buyer Dan Jago it now controls more than 35% of the UK market, selling a whopping £1.5 billion worth of wine a year – making it one of the largest, if not the largest, wine retailer in the world. With buying power like that, it is little wonder prices are falling.

In recent years the team at Tesco has taken more of an interest in its wine list. Without going back to the drawing board completely, the Finest range has subtly managed to reflect the origins of the wine, gently educating the consumer in the notion of individuality and terroir. Let's not get too carried away, as we are still talking about a major multiple's wine list, but I have to say, having tasted through a range of the Finest selection, I was impressed.

In my opinion, anything with 'Finest' on the label should, at the very least, be interesting and convey some element of the character of where the wine was made. Tesco Finest Los Nogales Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is a case in point. It's a stunning wine, possessing both zippy, concentrated fruit and a masculine, steely acidity, and it is well made. So far so good, but what I really like is its provenance. The Leyda valley, in the north-west of Chile, is a haven of clean, vibrant wines. This is just the sort of region, little known and punching well above its weight, that warrants a Finest label.

The wine-buying team tell me the purpose of the Finest range is to "inject a little confidence" into the consumer. Most wine at supermarkets, or in the UK generally for that matter, is bought by women doing the weekly shop. Price is invariably the most important factor, as well as label recognition and, thirdly, recommendation. The Finest range works as the list is full of the sort of intriguing wines you would find in your local independent wine merchant. And for hopeless romantics like me, therein lies the problem. On the one hand, I am warmly encouraged by Tesco's renewed vigour. Yet with such a vibrant independent wine trade in Scotland (one that is the envy of regional England) I would hate to see that go the same way as the meat, fish and bakery trade. I suspect most of you feel the same but, like me, can't resist a quick run round the local supermarket.

Tesco Finest Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 13.5%, £6.85

An intriguing, characterful wine with an inviting honeyed, flowery nose with ripe apples. The palate is slightly vegetal with a steely, dry length. This would improve accompanied by food.


2007 Tesco Finest Los Nogales Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley, Chile, 13.5%, £7.15

This is a really interesting wine. On the nose it is definitely New World in character, while on the palate it shows signs of the Old World. The concentration is astonishing. It overflows with ripe gooseberries, pears and tart green apples. Spritzy on the palate, there is a welcome zip with a masculine, steely minerality on the finish.

2006 Tesco Finest Navarra Rosado, Navarra, Spain, 12.5%, £5.70

This is just what you want from a rosé. Light, inoffensive and subtle, with gentle flavours of redcurrants and unripe strawberries. It dances down the palate, leaving you thirsting for a second glass.

Something for the weekend

Long Island iced tea

1/2 part gin

1/2 part white rum

1/2 part tequila

1 part vodka

1/2 part triple sec

dash of lime juice

dash of lemon juice

1 lemon wedge

dash of sugar syrup

Shake all the ingredients together, along with five ice cubes and some cracked ice. Strain and pour into a highball glass. Top up with cola.

www.cocktail.uk.com

Deals of the week


Lanson Black Label champagne

Usually £25 – down 23% at Waitrose to £18.99

2007 Errazuriz Carmenère, Aconcagua Valley

Usually £6.99 – down 20% to £5.59 when you buy two bottles at Sainsbury's

2006 St-Amour 'Aux Anges', Pierre Dupond

Usually £8.99 – down 20% to £7.19 when you buy two bottles at Majestic