Photograph: Robert Perry
FEW areas of Scotland are more poorly served
for restaurants than Stirling and its immediate surroundings. Apart from a few bright spots – the upgraded Cromlix House, the revamped Chambo, the calm understatement of Herman's and the continued progress of the Sheriffmuir Inn, for example – the options for a low-key evening meal in this affluent and populous corner of the country are still severely limited. Thank heavens, then, for Clive Ramsay.
Ramsay started out as a purveyor of fine cheeses and superior fruit and veg to the good people of Bridge of Allan. With an eye for detail and an emphasis on quality, he was highly successful too, dishing up the sort of delicious soups, sandwiches and mugs of steaming cappuccinos that drew customers into a well-heeled village that is now the furthest outpost of Stirling's urban sprawl.
He's also a canny man, is Ramsay, and with Stirling University just up the road and a distinct lack of places to eat, four years ago he expanded his repertoire to include an easy-eating café-cum-restaurant catering for all tastes, from a smoothie and bagel in the morning, tea and scones in the afternoon to a full-blown three-course meal in the evenings. After quickly cornering the market in relaxed lunches and dinners, three years ago he kept the deli but sold his Bridge of Allan flagship to Ciao Roma, using the funds to open branches at a local golf club, Stirling University sports centre and the Falkirk Wheel.
Rather than change a winning formula, the 'new' owners have stuck to the same well-constructed menu (albeit one with "sexy food" printed all over its cover), have ensured a continued lack of fripperies and kept the emphasis on local ingredients. Most importantly, they still offer excellent value, with the majority of main courses coming in at less than a tenner, the starters all around the £5 mark and the house wine on offer from £12.50. The combination has ensured that, even on wintery midweek evenings, there is a reliable stream of custom to keep the place ticking over nicely.
I started with the salad of pigeon and black pudding with a redcurrant dressing, while Michael opted for the pumpkin ravioli with red pepper pesto and parmesan. I definitely got the better deal, with the succulent, gamey tones of the pigeon perfectly accompanied by the surprisingly moist black pudding, and rounded off with a redcurrant dressing that was nowhere near as sweet as I'd feared. Although I'm not sure in what sense this was a salad, it was beautifully presented in a sort of stacked arrangement.
Michael's ravioli was also a pretty picture, but where my starter was more about substance than style, his lone piece of ravioli looked good, but was lukewarm and alarmingly insubstantial.
His main course, Thai fishcakes with a sweet chilli sauce, was more filling, if a little on the stodgy side; but my pheasant on a mushroom risotto was a cut above, the meat tender and moist, the risotto bursting with pungent strains of mushroom flavours. It was a combination that worked perfectly and neatly encapsulated Ramsay's original culinary vision.
We finished up with Maltesers ice-cream and profiteroles, both of which would be most appreciated by diners with a highly developed sweet tooth – which meant they suited me perfectly. It also rounded off a meal in which the accent was on quality produce simply cooked and efficiently presented.
The service mirrored an obvious preoccupation with getting the basics right first. On occasions, the fact that many of the staff have been drawn from the local student population has resulted in a hit-and-miss standard of service, but that was not the case this time: friendly, efficient and prompt, the service was consistently excellent all night.
All of which explains why the formula remains a winning one. Good local produce at affordable prices, served in a relaxed and convivial environment: sounds like a recipe for success to me.
VITAL STATISTICSClive Ramsay26 Henderson Street, Bridge of Allan, Stirling (01786 831616;
www.cliveramsay.com)
Out of pocket Soups and starters £3.95–£5.25; mains £8.25–£11.99 (steak £17.99); Puddings £3.95–£4.95
Rating 7/10
The full article contains 730 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
