Rhubarb's colour is uplifting, making it ideal for comforting puddings. But its flavour also lends itself well to some unusual taste combinations, such as a cool mint and rhubarb compôte with gorgeous spring lamb.
Forced rhubarb is grown in the da
rk. While the name suggests aggressive methods of cultivation, in fact the process is very gentle. The rhubarb is kept under big bell plant pots, which prevent it growing up too fast. It is even picked by candlelight so all the other wee pots don't think it's time to start growing, which sounds wonderfully tender and romantic. It grows at its best in a cool climate, which would explain why practically every garden in the country has a big patch.
Rhubarb is a great source of fibre and, combined with a healthy diet, has been proven to help reduce cholesterol – all the more reason to tuck in.
I used to eat rhubarb perched on a plant pot in my gran's garden, dunking a stalk into a wee poke made from old newspaper and filled with sugar. That was my reward for picking the rhubarb to make the Sunday crumble, tart or rhubarb pudding – though I don't suppose it was a treat for my teeth.
If you can't grow it yourself, look out for crisp, firm, plump stalks at the greengrocer's. Bought nice and fresh, it will last up to two weeks in the fridge, raw or cooked. It also worth remembering that it freezes well. Even in the most basic of dishes, such as simply stewed with custard, rhubarb always makes me smile – just remembering the cartoon with the big gangly dog and that totally catchy tune.
Jacqueline O'Donnell is the head chef at The Sisters (www.thesisters.co.uk), 34 Kelvingrove Street, Glasgow (0141 564 1157); and 1 Ashwood Gardens, Glasgow (0141 434 1179)
RHUBARB-AND-MINT COMPOTE1/2 small onion, finely chopped; 1 tsp butter; 500g fresh rhubarb; 2 tbsp white sugar; 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice; 1 tbsp lemon zest; 2 tbsp fresh chopped mintSoften the onion in the butter in a pan. Add the rhubarb, sugar and lemon juice. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for five minutes. Add the mint.
This compôte will keep for two to three weeks in the fridge.
GINGER-AND-RHUBARB SAUCE2 tbsp butter; 1/2 red onion, finely chopped; 1 garlic clove, sliced; 200g fresh ginger, peeled and finely sliced; 500ml chicken stock; 4 sticks rhubarb; 4 tbsp fresh chopped sageMelt the butter in a pan, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and soften gently. Pour the stock over and simmer on a very low heat for 15 minutes.
Cook the rhubarb in this liquid for five minutes. Add the fresh sage and serve as a sauce with venison or duck.
RHUBARB AND CUSTARD50g sugar; 35ml Cointreau; 500g rhubarb stalks; 4 free-range egg yolks; 25g sugar; 1 vanilla pod; 500ml whipping creamBring a pan containing 250ml water to the boil then add 50g sugar. After a minute or two add the Cointreau. Next, add the rhubarb and cook lightly for five minutes. Leave in the liquid.
Whisk the egg yolks with 25g sugar until pale. Heat the cream then quickly whisk over the eggs. Transfer back to the pot and heat gently, along with the vanilla pod, until it coats the back of your spoon. Lift the stalks on to a plate and pour some custard over them. Serve warm.
The full article contains 604 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
