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Dead men didn't wear plaid – meet the saffron Braveheart

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Published Date: 28 June 2009
THE stirring image of kilted warriors charging into battle at Bannockburn has been depicted everywhere from Hollywood blockbusters to school history books.
But now it has been claimed that medieval Scottish soldiers actually fought wearing bright yellow war shirts rather than tartan plaid.

Historian Fergus Cannan claims that Highland footsoldiers donned saffron-coloured tunics called leine croich be
fore squaring up to the Auld Enemy.

The English-born author believes that some warriors even dyed the garments with horse urine in order to get the boldest possible colours.

Cannan, who claims he can trace his family roots back to the legendary monarch Robert the Bruce, makes the case for a saffron rather than a tartan army in the forthcoming book Scottish Arms And Armour.

In the tome he asserts that the Scots armies who fought in the pivotal battles of Bannockburn and Flodden Field would have looked very different to the way they have traditionally been depicted.

Cannan said: "What the Scottish soldiers wore in the country's greatest battles is an area that, up until now, has not been properly studied.

"We know quite clearly what happened at Bannockburn and Flodden, but visual images of these hugely important episodes are very vague and have been muddled by 19th and 20th interpretations which put a romantic gloss on Scottish history.

"A lot of historians quite rightly stated that the film Braveheart was not terribly accurate, but what they didn't admit was that they didn't have a clue what would be accurate."

The military history specialist scoured original medieval eye-witness accounts, manuscripts, art, sculptures and tomb effigies to build up a picture of what members of Robert the Bruce's forces would have worn in 1314.

He was keen to debunk both the "Braveheart stereotype" of blue-faced, kilted hordes and the revisionist suggestion that medieval Scots soldiers were almost indistinguishable from their English opponents.

He said: "I believe both of these views are equally wrong.

"There is no need for this period to be shrouded in mystery as there is a wealth of evidence out there, which appears to have been almost completely ignored and overlooked.

"Forget about the plaid and tartan.

"What Highlanders did wear when they went into battle throughout the Middle Ages, right up until the end of the 16th century, was what English writers refer to as saffron war shirts, known in Gaelic as leine croich."

Cannan claims there were numerous contemporary references to the distinctive linen tunics which were usually worn with a belt round the middle.

"The yellow war shirt is never shown in any film or popular image and yet it is something that all the original writers comment on.

"Saffron was a rare and expensive item to get hold of back then, so the poorer clansmen would have dyed the linen with things like horse urine, bark and crushed leaves to get the rich yellow colour.

"Historians of the time say the use of the real spice combined with the yards of material used was a symbol of status and the mark of a chieftain."

The author believes that the leine croich was worn for its practicality and could be used as bedding and well as an elementary form of armour.

He said: "It was fairly thick and had so many yards of material that it was probably enough to stop a sword blow.

"When we hear from English writers of that time that Scots went into battle unprotected or semi-naked they didn't understand that what they wore was a form of armour.

"On top of the leine croich an average clansman would wear a deerskin or cowhide jerkin, which would be waxed or dipped in pitch to make it waterproof.

"However, a Scots nobleman of that era would have worn a long mail shirt or iron-riveted rings and a helmet."

Angus, Chief of Clan Chattan, recorded in 1572 that the "yellow war shirt" was still venerated by his people as "the badge of the Chieftaines".

However, the Gaelic historian Martin Martin, a native of Skye, wrote that saffron garments had fallen out of use at the end of the 16th century.

Cannan claims the dyed garments were equally popular with Gaelic-speaking Irish warriors over the same periods in history.

Dr Clare Downham of Aberdeen University believes that Cannan's analysis fits with her knowledge of Celtic Scotland.

The historian said: "The tartan kilt as we know it today is part of a romantic and more modern imagining of Scotland's past

"But it is clear from records dating back to the 11th century that the Gaels were well known for going bare-legged and wearing a sort of form of plaid.

"The Norwegian king went to the Hebrides in 1098 and adopted the dress of the locals and became known as Magnus Barelegs when he returned home.

"This distinctive form of dress ethnically distinguished the Gaels at that time."

The Battle of Bannockburn in June 1314, when Bruce's forces defeated a far larger invading English army, is widely seen as Scotland's greatest military triumph and secured the country's independence for centuries.

However, the Battle of Flodden Field, when James IV's troops were routed in Northumberland in 1513 with huge numbers of casualties including the king himself, is regarded by many as Scotland's darkest hour.

Scottish Arms And Armour is published by Shire Books.





The full article contains 900 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 27 June 2009 9:00 PM
  • Source: Scotland On Sunday
  • Location: Scotland
 
1

Fifi la Bonbon,

28/06/2009 00:07:38
This is an interesting story. More fourteenth-century news, please.
2

DialMforMurdoX,

28/06/2009 00:38:02
It is an interesting story, Fifi. Did you know the French soldiers in WW1 wore bright blue tunics which could be spotted miles away by the Bosch, who shot at them with great accuracy. Johnny Frenchamn soon changed colours.

The recent series on BBC4 with colour images of France in WW1 highlighted it. Fascinating.
3

Jo Flo,

slightly widemouthed 28/06/2009 00:49:06
So weird.
I have just been reading about tartan and Martin Martin's writings.
There are findings of similar material (tartan like leggings) in ancient egypt and beyond.

Martin reckoned that there was no clan tartan but possible regional tartans, even then not substanstiated, which were eventually taken on by the cheif as means of stature and ownership.
4

Mìcheal a Eilean Rùim,

Richmond 28/06/2009 02:19:31
I don't think that the use of lèine (linen) colored with cròch (saffron) will come as a great surprise to anyone familiar with Gaelic culture.
An act of Henry VIII forbade any person in Ireland after 1 May, 1539 to dress their hair in the Irish fashion or to wear any shirt, smock, ribbon, bib or handkerchief, or linen coloured or dyed with saffron. This had the immediate effect of curtailing the supply of saffron-dyed linen to the Highlands and as the article above makes clear, attempts to imitate it were made.
As for footwear, many Highlanders would have worn cuarans, a form of rawhide deer skin leggings, or mogans, a half legging not unlike those of North American Indians.
Tartan itself seems to have begun as a form of weaving sheep wool and dying the result with local vegetable dyes. There could only have been a limited number of suitable vegetable dyes and patterning probably grew from a wish to differentiate one (tartan) pattern from another in the area which may have been quite similar.
It seem that that tartans did not act to differentiate one clan from another by varying the sett, aand the few pre-Culloden portraits that remain show a mix of patterns in the clothing portrayed. The reality of the plaid was that its it is an all-weather garment to protect the wearer from inclement weather, along with its secondary use as a sleeping bag, sometime underlined by having a pin or two to help keep it from falling open while the wearer was asleep. There were various methods of folding the plaid that allowed the sleeper to keep his hand on his sword and be on his feet instantly in the event of a nocturnal attack.
Much of the above is from my own memory as related to me as a boy, but I think in general I have not strayed too far from what was probably the reality.
Agus, sin agad mo stòiridh (and that's my tale).
5

gus1940,

Edinburgh 28/06/2009 08:24:43
#2

It was the red trousers they wore not the blue tunics which made the poilus easy targets. The replacemnet French uniforms were blue.

Correct me if I am wrong but the impression I have always had is that the Scottish army at Bannockburn consisted predominantly of Lowlanders.
6

donald,

glasgow 28/06/2009 08:31:06
The linen saffron shirts were worn under the plaids up to Culloden. The plaid was discarded in the Highland charge and the shirt, or tunic, knotted between the legs. The reason for discarding both was because the dyes would often contaminate wounds.

The ancient Scots in Ireland wore striped setts. Seven stripes, or setts denoted the highest rank. Most modern tartans have seven setts. The Anderson tartan has eight, possibly unique.

Yes the Celts were wearing these setts in Europe, the Near East, Egypt and even on Celtic mummified bodies found in China. One of the oldest was the red and black tartan, later to be known as the MacGregor war check. The MacGregor War Sett was worn as Jaikit and triubhs (trews) by the Earl of Angus's Jacobite Forfar Regiment in the 1745 Rebellion.
7

Observer,,

Glasgow 28/06/2009 08:32:20
This is all very well but what has it got to do with Steve Martin.
8

donald,

glasgow 28/06/2009 08:36:38
The plaid was also discarded for wok in the fields and in the hoose. The little kilt was worn in the hoose and by young boys. It was also worn in the barracks by Scottish fencible and line regiments when these regiments were formed by James IV, I. It was sheer propaganda to say that the (little) kilt was invented by and English employer in the Glengarry charcoal smelting plant. Of course they would not wear the heavy woolen plaid in such heat.
9

donald,

glasgow 28/06/2009 08:45:33
#5
"Correct me if I am wrong but the impression I have always had is that the Scottish army at Bannockburn consisted predominantly of Lowlanders. "

Yes. Wrong. Angus Og of the Isles, or the Great Clan Donald, led the right flank. They came from all over Scotland from Orkney, Shetland, Highlands, Island, Lowlands, Borders, Galloway, etc.

The Clan Donald Bards, who played at Bannockbun, were Murphys, who became, Murchies, MacMurchies, Currys, Currans, Murdochs, MacMurdochs,etc. Nowadays the The English hire a Murphy to tweet for them.
10

overton,

aberdeen 28/06/2009 09:13:59
Well, well, that's Alex Salmond's Party's entire political philosophy blown right out of the window!
11

Kenny A,

28/06/2009 09:31:17
Good posts today

The story of the yellow war shirt is not new, plenty evidence about. If anyone goes to Rhodal in Harris the design can be clearly seen on the tomdstones of the chiefs in St Clemants.

My understanding was the men of the Isles wore a crimson version. There was a documentary a good while ago, possibly time team which covered this.

Blue warpaint is a joke, confusion about this but probably the ancient Britons who were heavily into Woad and also the Picts who seemed to be tatooed, led Mel Gibson to add a bit of colour to his film. Historical Nonsense Braveheart but it did do a great deal of positive publicity for Scotland. I was in Asia when it came out and people treated me with greater respect and curiosity following this.

Going into battle naked is however well documented as who would want to fight in the plaid more. Basicaly a big blanket, when the tactics were speed and agression.

The rebel yell of the Southern States of the USA also seems derived from Highland clansmen who screamed something close to Ye Hah when charging, as in the states this first came to prominance in the Carolinas, this is no surprise. It was the equivalent in its day of the stun grenade designed to disoriantate, and was particularly effective when the charge was downhill giving greater momentum.

The old clans rarly went for set pitch battles, it was all as mentioned before speed, agression, shock get whant you want done and then clear out, very similar to modern special forces tactics. The ancient saying it is difficult to kill your enemy when you are dead is related, however this is not 100% true as they did, centuarys of blood feuds. Annamosity between some clans to this present day, although generaly it is much more ligh hearted.



12

For Scotlands Future,

Vote for the SNP 28/06/2009 10:10:12
I think the Boer War in South Africa was the last time the "British" army wore their bright red tunics and white helmets. Easy target practice for the farmers.
13

overton,

aberdeen 28/06/2009 11:01:23
12 For Scotlands Future

The British regiments made an uncertain change into khaki uniforms in the years preceding the Boer War, with the topee helmet as tropical headgear. Highland regiments in Natal devised aprons to conceal coloured kilts and sporrans.
14

Leughair,

Scotland 28/06/2009 11:42:12
Marc Horne appears to be merely the latest in a long line of hack journalists who, having moved to Scotland with a load of simplistic notions in their baggage, are surprised to learn that Scottish history was never so black-and-white as they had previously imagined. In desperation for a "scoop" (and for a dearth of genuine news), he announces his profound discovery as if it's as much a revelation to the world as it obviously is to him. But, true to form, he jumps from one simplistic extreme to another. Anyone with a basic knowledge of Scottish history and culture finds his scoops frankly naive and infantile.
15

Archie Duncan,

Na h-Earadh 28/06/2009 12:28:09
Highland clothing evolved over the centuries according to changes in circumstances. Throughout history, what a drover wore was different from what a plowman wore; how a fisherman dressed was not the same as the kit of a professional warrior. Just as fortified architecture altered to deal with new weaponry, so did the clothing of a fighting man. The padded tunics depicted at Rodel and elsewhere were used in the era when fighting was primarily with a single-handed sword. Such padding was useless against firearms and so it was discarded in favour of clothing which allowed for rapid movement, with a targe to protect from musket shot at a distance. The actual "leine croich" was current in the 15th - 16th centuries and was quite different from the padded tunic of the Middle-ages; it was loose and volumous with long, hanging sleeves. It's use by warriors was one more of bravura than of protection and its era was that of the two-handed sword. Just as this sword co-existed with a cross-hilted single-handed sword, so did the the "leine croich" co-exist with the Medieval padded tunics which were gradually going out of use. Unfortunately, so much is said and published which attempts to encapsulate a great stretch of history into a brief, sweeping statement. The study of Highland clothing history requires general study of the historical and cultural context of the Highlands and indeed much of Europe. The trade with Spain (via Ireland) and other European nations played a major role in the available weaponry of Ireland and the Western Isles and West Highlands throughout the period in question.
16

Stan Butler,

28/06/2009 14:19:38

Who cares what they wore.

The important thing is they got to kill the English.

FREEDUMB!!!!!!!!
17

Number 6,

Germany 28/06/2009 15:44:36
Have Scottish regiments being wearing tartan and kilts since the inception of the British Army ?.

If it had not been identified with the "Scotish soldier," why have the Regiments in kilts ?
18

ukrefusenik,

falkirk 28/06/2009 18:04:24
how bizarre , its somehow "news" that hielanders fought in saffron shirts ? when did it become news ? i think my fellow posters should give themselves a six month crash course in medieval scottish history , if this came as any suprise to them , when i left the "Rockie" in the mid sixties i realised they had taught me NOTHING about scottish history WHATSOEVER , i started reading about people called "red hector of the battles" , " constantine , king of fife " or "the thirty brudes" and i remain to this day passionate about scotlands past , if anybody wishes to read an easy access to our history , the books of john prebble will be hard to put down once you start
19

Kenny A,

28/06/2009 21:32:44
Again good posts, glad to see it.

Man from Harris I think it was mainly two handed longswords although Donald of the two swords from Uig was into shorter weapons, a different style of combat that gave him by all accounts an advantage.

18 Know what you mean, was never taught about Scottish history in school, it seemed a forbiden subject, learned about it it due course partly to the influance of my much older elders and strangly the books of Nigel Tranter which I then started reading. In my neck of the woods oral tradition was the thing and memories long as they say.

20

Kenny A,

28/06/2009 21:38:11
17 A good question.

Some Scottish regiments wore Trews, the kilt only came to be worn a bit after Culloden after it became fashionable, romantic, call it what you wish, Victorian times basicaly.

I think it became iconic after in WW1 they showed soldiers going into battle wearing the kilt, ladies from hell and all that. Looked at this before I posted any further info appreciated.
21

Jock Tamson,

Scotland, Caledonia, Alba 28/06/2009 22:15:38
I believe the use of urine was merely to set the dye. The dyes came from plant colourings and the garments were steeped in urine after the colour was applied.

Either that or the plants were in the tub with the urine and material at the same time. But the colour never came from the urine. If it did, all plaid would have been the same colour as that was the bog standard method of dyeing.
22

Archie Duncan,

Na h-Earadh 28/06/2009 23:44:21
Stale urine was used even within my experience for setting dyes as it is still in places like Morocco. It is on account of the amonia which fixes the dye. However, the yellow obtained from saffron is actually a stain rather than a dye. There is record of the actually process in an Irish manuscript. It uses real saffron, as the name "leine croich" (saffron coming from crocus; "croich"), together with other plans such as arbitus. It is significant that in Gaelic culture yellow is the colour of heroism and victory. Indeed, the two words are almost identical: buidh is yellow, buidhe is victory. Even in today's Gaelic you encourage someone by wishing them a "yellow" outcome to a challenge.
23

Cabbie,

in the real world 28/06/2009 23:53:47
#17.
The ban on wearing tartan, Kilt or playing the bagpipes never applied to the armed forces.
24

Cabbie,

29/06/2009 00:01:00
Tartan has evolved over the years and it seems that just about every other day a new tartan is designed, this does not make the wearing of the kilt or tartan any less part of Scotland's heritage and culture.
25

Kenny A,

29/06/2009 09:12:52
23

Not quite true, under the proscription rules of 1746 Gaelic, carrying weapons and playing the pipes were banned, it was quickly recinded for the Army with the creation of various regiments, the most well known being the Black Watch who were created to control and subdue the highlanders.

Not sure about tartan regarding the Army think this came in later.
26

Archie Duncan,

29/06/2009 19:00:33
Kenny A, I'm afraid it's your own post which is not quite true. If you read the actual Act of Proscription (it was legislated in 1747, not 1746), there is no mention whatsoever of bagpipes, not is there any mention of them in the Act of Repeal. The "banning of the pipes" is a popular urban myth. On the other hand, the original Act states quite specifically that those who are members of His Majesty's Forces (including fencible regiments, which were already uniformed with tartan) are exempt. So indeed are women as the Act states "any Man of Boy" and that it only applies to Scotland.

 

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